Archive for the ‘Tutorials’ Category

Connect Your MIDI Controller/Soundcard to Your Mac

Wednesday, January 26th, 2011

Note: This tutorial is written to help people get all set up, who are new to using their MIDI controllers with software. By the end of it, you should be able to send MIDI messages from your controller to the software and vice-versa.

Before I start, I’m going to assume that your controller is either plugged into your computer with USB, or that it’s plugged into a soundcard via MIDI, which is plugged into your computer with USB/Firewire. If it isn’t, do that (MIDI Out to MIDI In, and MIDI In to MIDI Out). I’m also assuming that you’ve installed the necessary drivers for your soundcard if you’re using one. All this should be explained in the manual of your product.

Now, open “Audio/MIDI Setup” which is located in your Utilities folder. You should see something like this:

It may automatically detect it if you press ‘Rescan MIDI’. Otherwise, you’ll need to tell your computer what devices you have set up or it won’t detect them in the program you’re planning on making music with. If you’re not using a soundcard, but are directly connected to your computer with a MIDI In/Out to USB adapter, the adapter will act as your soundcard and you still have to set it up. To do this, click on the “Add Device” button and one will appear.

Double-click on the new external device to fill in its information. A window will appear where you can name it, specify a manufacturer and a model. Enter the information for your soundcard/adapter first. Mine looks like this:

When you’re done, click ‘Apply’ and you’ll see the newly named device with arrows below it, as long as the computer recognizes that it’s a soundcard and not a controller. If the arrows appear above the device, that probably means your drivers (which come on a CD with the product) aren’t installed (which means you didn’t follow my flawless instructions and install your driver before starting this tutorial). Now, do the exact same thing with your keyboard. Create a new device and rename it according to its Manufacturer and Model name. After you’ve created both devices, you should have something like this:

Now what you need to do is virtually plug your controller into the soundcard or adapter. Click on the up/down arrow of the soundcard/adapter and drag the chord down to the corresponding up/down arrow on your controller. Now the In and Out of the controller should be connect to the Out and In of the soundcard/adapter, respectively, like so:

Your soundcard/controller is now recognized by your computer. Yay! You can verify this by clicking ‘Test Setup’ and playing some notes on your controller. There will be visual feedback if it’s working. But for you to be able to use it with software, you have to specify in that program that you want to use it as your input. I’ll give you Reason and Garageband in my example because I’m so nice, but the steps should be pretty much the same for any other program involving audio, including ones like Skype.

Open the program and go to the preferences. Likely in the ‘Audio’ tab, you’ll have the option of setting your audio input/output (in Reason, there’s no Audio Input because Reason doesn’t allow you to record audio). What you should choose for your output depends on your setup. If your monitors are plugged into the output on your computer, then choose your computer’s audio output. If your monitors are connected to the output on your soundcard, choose your soundcard as your audio output. Obviously if you’re not using a soundcard, you’ll want to choose your computer’s output. If you have a soundcard, your input should always be set to your soundcard because why the heck would you want to record with your computer’s line in if you had a soundcard? Exactly. Anyway, mine looks like this:

This is what youll see in Reasons preference pane.

This is what you'll see in Reason's preference pane.

And this is what youll see in Garagebands preference pane.

And this is what you'll see in Garageband's preference pane.

As you can see, Garageband automatically detects your MIDI input so you don’t have to set it up. Notice where it says, “1 MIDI Input(s) detected.” In Reason, you have to do the same thing as we did to set up our devices for the Mac. Go to the ‘Keyboards and Control Surfaces’ tab. You’ll probably notice that under ‘Attached Surfaces’, there’s nothing there. Try clicking ‘Auto-detect Surfaces.’ It may find your controller by itself. Otherwise, we do the same thing as we did before: Add a new surface and fill in the info (Name, Manufacturer, Model, etc…) and click OK. Now it will be added to the list of attached surfaces and you can check off the ‘Use with Reason’ box. It should be working:

So there you go. That’s how you get stuff working in your thing. If this didn’t work for you, leave a comment and I’ll try to help you. If it did help, leave a comment so I can feel good about myself. Thanks!

Sepia Tutorial

Saturday, May 15th, 2010

Personally, I’ve never been a huge fan black and white. I like color, and taking all the color out of a photo is just depressing to me. Sometimes though, contrasting the heck out of a picture and boosting all the color isn’t appropriate either. Dilemma… Is there a happy medium? Yes. It’s called sepia, and it’s cooler than black and white in my opinion.

Sepia is super easy to achieve. All you need is a photo to edit and a means to edit it. I’m poor, so I use The GIMP because it’s free and it has virtually all the capability of Photoshop in terms of photo retouch. Maybe some Photoshop gurus would challenge me on that, but whateva’. Don’t taze me bro’.

Alright, so open your photo in the program. This is the one I’m going to use:

It's my sister! ^_^

It's my sister! ^_^

P.S. The photo I’m using is already edited. I retouched it previously and I recommend that you do the same before you get going on the sepia. But for the sake of brevity, I’m going to stick to the sepia aspect. If you need retouching tips, you might find this Curves Tutorial helpful.

In your color menu, bring up ‘Colorize.’ In Photoshop, you have to open up “Hue/Saturation” and make sure the box that says ‘Colorize’ is checked. This is likely all you’ll need. It includes Hue, Saturation and Lightness perimeters. Once you open ‘Colorize’ and all the meters are at equilibrium, two things will happen: a) it will change to a blueish color that looks terrible and b) a lot of saturation will be added. Drag the Hue to the far left until you reach the reddish colors. I had mine set at 18 and here’s what it looks like so far:

huepicture-1

Next, adjust the lightness. If you set it too high, everything will look really washed out and way too bright. You’ll be able to see that if you have eyes. A low setting might be appropriate if you’re editing a picture of someone about to commit suicide or something equally depressing. I had mine at 27, but Photoshop and GIMP meter their Lightness and Saturation perimeters completely differently, so if you’re using Photoshop, then it won’t look the same as on GIMP:

LightnessColorize

Finally, modify the Saturation. This is where it’s really up to your artistic eye to decide how saturated you want it. Some pictures will look better with very little color left in them, and some will look better with more. That’s why this tutorial is so easy. There’s no right or wrong really. I’m just showing you what settings you need to mess around with to get the effect. So here’s the final result:

Saturationpicture-3

Sheesh, I wish my curves tutorial was that easy. Now go forth and make your profile pictures sepia. Then join my Sepia Club.

How to Create an Imitation Record Scratch Sound

Wednesday, April 21st, 2010

I have a lot of money in my bank account. Unfortunately this money is for school, not for buying two six-hundred dollar turntables and a mixer. Chances are, even if you like country music, you probably think those sweet ‘scratcha scratcha‘ (not to be confused with ‘wiki wiki‘ (not to be confused with Wikipedia)) sounds you hear in hip hop music are pretty cool. It’s because they are. It’s your natural, instinctive, good music taste trying to break through; trying to tell you to stop listening to country. Anyway…

For most people, even serious musicians, an expensive DJ hardware shopping spree is not in their budget, especially if it’s just for the sake of making cool noises. The purpose of this tutorial is to offer a solution (or at least an alternative) to an otherwise expensive way of achieving that unmatched percussive effect that most people have only ever mimed.

The reason I hesitate to call it a solution is because the final result of this tutorial is much less than a replica of what an actual turntable would produce. And in case you didn’t catch my drift in the first paragraph, we’ll be reproducing a scratching sound, not a ‘wiki wiki’ sound. I’ll be using Reason’s Thor Polysonic Synthesizer, the Scream 4 Distortion unit, and an ECF-42 Controlled Filter, but any synth with the same perimeters should be able to do the same thing, and likely any distortion or filter unit can too. I’ll also add that this is not a lesson on synthesis or effects units. If you don’t know anything about sound design, then this won’t help you learn, since I won’t be going into any detail about the steps I’m asking you to take.

Just a little bit of attack. Just a little.

So get Thor out and initialize the patch. You’re going to want to change OSC1 (oscillator #1) to ‘Noise’ because that’s just what scratching sounds like. It will sound really weak at first because the Filter Envelope and the Amp Envelope are automatically really lame. Turn the Sustain of the Amp Env. all the way up so the sound won’t quiet down; give it a really fast attack and release speed too, so the sound will stop when you take your hand off the keys. You won’t need any decay either. This is what my Amp Env. looks like (left).

Filter Envelope

For Filter Env., you’ll want Sustain all the way down and relatively quick Decay so that we can have some oomph at the beginning of the scratch. No Attack or Release are necessary. Like so!

Filter

You’ll probably notice it sounds nothing like a scratch still. We have to play around with the filter a bit. We only need one, and I usually use the ‘State Variable’ Filter on a Bandpass setting. Bring up the Filter Frequency until it sounds a little harsher and a little scratchier (left).

OSCAn important part in achieving an accurate scratch sound has to do with mixing different noise settings. You have three different oscillators to fill with different kinds of noise. I find it’s good to have a ‘Static’ noise oscillator because it’s really crackly and gives it a really good sound. Other than that, fiddle around with the other noise settings until you have a combination of noises that sound kind of like the record scratch you’re going for and change the levels for them if certain oscillators are too loud. On the right is what I ended up with.

Up to now, no matter what note on the keyboard you press, you get about the same sound. How annoying, and completely unlike a scratching turntable. We have to track the keyboard so the lower you play on the keyboard, the lower the pitch of the scratch will be. For this, we’ll route the Full Range of the keyboard to the Filter Frequency. If you hold down a key and turn the Frequency knob up and down, you’ll notice that it changes the pitch. So, under ‘Source,’ pick ‘Note (Full Range)’ in the ‘Voice Key’ section. Under ‘Dest (destination),’ pick ‘Frequency’ in the ‘Filter 1′ section. Also, turn the Amount up to 100. Now when you play two different keys, you’ll notice that the lower ones are more muffled sounding, and the higher ones are louder, higher and more intense. But it’s not really enough. For it to be convenient to play, we want the full range of sounds to be in the space of about an octave, so we’re not jumping up and down the whole keyboard when we’re scratching. So do the same thing in the spaces left, until the least intense note is about the width of your outstretched hand away from the most intense note. I ended up doing it five times.

keynote

So now we have a more diverse sound bank, but it still sounds nothing like what we want. I hope you’re not getting frustrated with that, hah. What’s going to make this white noise sound cool is them being joined together. Like when the DJ accelerates the speed of the record and it’s like, “CRRRRESSHHHST!” Two things that need to be done first are a) turn Portamento on and b) change the Polyphony of the patch to 1. The type of Polyphony we want is ‘Mono Legato.’ That will make it so you can leave your finger on one note, add a second note which it will change to, and then when you take your finger back off it, it will return to the note your finger is resting on. You probably got nothing out of that. So as an experiment, keep your finger on your lowest tone and tap a higher tone repeatedly. Every time you release the higher tone, it returns to the lower tone. That only works with ‘Mono Legato.’ Your Portamento speed should be relatively quick. Use your judgement. Or… just copy me.

Modes

Right now you have virtually no control over the sound, besides the frequency. We’re going to add some Velocity so that your touch on the keys actually makes a difference. With a free space you have left in that green part, change the source to ‘Velocity’ in the ‘Voice Key’ section. Route it to ‘Res (Resonance)’ in the ‘Filter 1′ section. Increase the amount and test the keys out. Hit them hard and then soft. You don’t want the sound to be totally distorted or resonant when you hit them, which will happen if you go too high. I have mine at 72. We’re also going to route the Pitch wheel to Frequency so you can control a note while you hold it instead of relying completely on the keys. Under source, choose ‘Pitch Bend’ in the ‘Performance’ section and route it to ‘Frequency’ like we did before. The amount can be at 100 so you have total control over the sound. Test it out by holding a note and bending your pitch wheel. Hopefully you have one. This is what my green section looks like now.

Green Zone!

So now you can hopefully see where this is going if you play around with the sounds a bit. Still a little rough though. It’s missing something… DISTORTION! Drag the Scream 4 Distortion unit under Thor. It has a butt load of different kinds of distortion, most of which will sound fine. Don’t use ‘Digital’ though. It… just won’t work at all. I used ‘Tube.’ The two knobs at the bottom correspond to the second and third column. Just play around until you find a sound you like. I’m doing it right now and I decided that ‘Distortion’ sounds awesome. So I’m going to change mine to that, hah. This distortion unit also has an equalizer, which is good. You won’t want a lot of bass in a scratch sound, so turn the low frequencies down a bit and boost the high to get a more screechy scratch. If you whisper the words ’screechy scratch’ rhythmically, it’s kind of like beat boxing. Anyway, ‘Damage Control’ just kind of controls the harshness of the sound. You won’t want it ridiculously harsh.

Distortion

We’re really getting there. I hope you can feel it. I can feel it. It’s great. We’re going to add a filter now. Because the sound is amazing, but too powerful. We want to cut out a lot of the low frequencies that you wouldn’t normally hear in a record scratch. Drag the ECF-42 Controlled Filter under the distortion unit and change it to a Bypass setting. Then bring up the frequency until it doesn’t sound muffled at all. You’ll be able to tell when you go too high because it’ll sound like crap. Then add a touch of Resonance to help out those high Frequencies. Not too much or you’ll get a ring, which is bad news bears. Those are the only perimeters you’ll need to edit though.

Controlled Filter

Alright. We’re done. If you did everything right then you should have something along the lines of this. And here’s a short example of our new screechy scratch patch in action. Also, if you recorded yourself saying ‘Screechy scratch patch in action,’ it would be a really outlandish sample for an electro house or drum and bass song. Highly recommended.

I hope this tutorial has helped you, or taught you, or enlightened you, or entertained you in some way. Again, I acknowledge that the final result isn’t a complete copy of a real scratch sound, but neither is any other synth sound anyone has ever come up with. Considering that the whole point of scratching is to just make a bunch of rhythmic noise, I’d say it doesn’t much matter anyway. Enjoy your discount DJ doodling!

Leave comments if you liked it, or if you had trouble with it, or if you have any questions or anything.

Curves

Wednesday, November 4th, 2009

So, you just graduated from high school and in your media class, you didn’t even touch curves in photoshop. Your teacher was always saying, “Levels!” Levels are pretty cool. But it’s time to do up your loins and hit the puberty of photo-enhancement. Here, I will do my best to increase your understanding of the ‘Curves’ option in your editing program and hopefully it won’t bore you to death. I’ll be using The GIMP, but it really doesn’t matter what program you use as long as you can find your color options. Also, I’m aware of the number of tutorials there are for curves already. They all suck. This one’s going to be the best one on the entire internet, so don’t waste your time elsewhere.

Note: I will not be covering the red, green, blue or alpha channels.

I do warn you that you may become extremely annoyed with the amount of times I will ask you questions, considering you can’t actually answer me. You will get more out of this if you pretend I’m not going to just answer myself immediately after (which I will). So try to think as you go through this, otherwise you won’t remember anything you learned after a while. For those of you who are too lazy to actually learn what curves is about, just set your graph to this and your picture will usually look better:

Here's a standard curves graph to use to make your picture look better.

Here's a standard curves graph to use to make your picture look better.

Yeah, go do that for every single photo you take. Have fun not knowing what the trash you’re doing! You goober. The rest of us are going to have an educational experience and walk away content in our wisdom. Okay.

Bring out any picture you want to make look better. Portraits, and generally any picture with a wide range of bright and dark colors, will work well for learning how to use curves. Here’s my sample image (for those of you who want to use the exact same one, click here):

This is the original, unedited together with its curves graph

This is the original, unedited picture together with its curves graph

Alright, so this is the original picture of my friend and I and to the right is the curves graph. See that mountainous range of grey? That’s called a histogram. But don’t remember that, because it doesn’t matter at all and it’s cooler if you call it the mountainous range of grey. This graph just represents the colors in the image. From left to right is dark to bright (all the way to the left would be the blacks and all the way to the right would be the whites). See how the mountainous range is taller near the left? That means that there’s more dark in this picture. See? Just look at the picture: my dark green sweater, dark green trees behind me, Jason’s black sweater. It’s pretty dark. There’s some light stuff too, like our ‘I-sit-in-my-basement-all-day-and-make-photoshop-tutorials’ light faces and our blond hair. But most of it is dark, hence the shape of the mountainous range. So hopefully that gives you an idea of how the graph is layed out.

So I haven’t talked yet about that big diagonal line. That’s how you’re going to control the colors in your picture. Here are a few examples that will show you what it does.

This is what the image will look like if you compress the dark colors.

This is what the image will look like if you compress the dark colors.

See the diagonal line now? It’s been dragged to the right. You can now imagine that the graph actually starts right above where that point has been dragged. That means that the colors to the left of that point have all turned black. That’s because, if we see the the very bottom of the slope as being the far left of the graph, then all the colors lined up with that point would be at the far left, which we know is black. Now you might understand why the image is so dark when we adjust it in that way. All the colors that might have just been dark, are now black. Look at my sweater! It’s black! It’s not even green anymore. That’s because the dark green that it was, was to the left of the point. So that’s how it’s been compressed. All those colors included in the part of the mountainous range that’s to the left of the new point are black now. They used to be dark, but now they’re black. Lame… Don’t do that to your pictures.

Here’s another example:

This is what the image will look like when the brights are compressed.

This is what the image will look like when the brights are compressed.

This one’s like the last one except opposite. We compressed the brights instead of the darks. So again, imagine the graph ends where the slope peaks. All those colors to the right of that peak may have been visible colors before. But now, since they’re all the way to the right of the graph, they have to be white. Take a look at our faces. You can still identify that they’re not completely white, but some parts of them are. Jason has red cheeks. And you can still see that here. That’s because the shade of red on his cheeks was dark enough to fall probably near the middle of that graph. And if it’s found within that general area on the graph, then it would escape the wrath of the point we dragged to the left and retain its color instead of turning white. My face however, is pretty white to begin with. You can see a lot of skin color, but also a lot of white on my face. That means that some of the beige was light enough to fall farther to the right of the graph. So when we drag the point over to the left, it is engulfed! You get it?

Here’s yet another!

This is the picture when we brighten the darks

This is the picture when we brighten the darks

Ew. Look how misty and faded that looks. Now look at the graph. We now dragged that bottom point up instead of to the right. The vertical aspect of this graph is represented by that bar just to the left of the graph: the one that’s black on the bottom and white on the top. So what we’ve done to this picture is made the blacks more of a grey. Notice also that you cannot modify a point without modifying things around it. As we drag the blacks up, many darks and a few lights will come with it. Anyway, go ahead and keep dragging that point all the way up gradually. When you get to the top, it will be completely white. That’s because you’ve taken all the the colors in the entire image and brought them up to white. Okay put it back.

Last example before we start getting practical:

This is what the picture looks like if we darken the brighter colors.

This is what the picture looks like if we darken the brighter colors.

This is also an ugly picture. On the graph, we’ve taken the lighter colors in the picture and dragged them down, which makes them darker. So what used to be white is now more of a light grey. If you were to keep dragging that point all the way down (DO IT!), everything would be black at the end. Again, instead of making all the colors white, you’re making them black. Hardly practical!

Woah, sorry about all that. But hopefully you’re glad you know what you’re doing now. Okay, now let me tell you what contrast is, just in case you don’t know. First off, contrast is good. Pictures with more contrast are more appealing than pictures with less. Anyway, contrast is the difference in tones in your picture. More contrast will make dark tones even darker, and bright tones even brighter. Less contrast will make bright things darker and dark things brighter. Whip out the good old ‘Brightness and Contrast’ box for a second. Looky here:

This is the picture with a high contrast setting.

This is the picture with a high contrast setting.

That’s high contrast. Look at my sweater again. It’s a pretty sweet sweater. But it’s supposed to be green! What the heck? It’s black now because it was a dark color. And when you boost contrast, dark tones become darker. So my dark green sweater has turned black because of too much contrast. Now look at my face. It’s so bright. Again, when you boost contrast, it makes light things even lighter. Like my face that has never seen the sun.

This is the picture with a low contrast setting.

This is the picture with a low contrast setting.

Now this is the picture with low contrast. Pretty sick. Jason’s sweater, which used to be black, is now dark grey. Decreasing contrast makes dark things lighter. Now look again at our faces. Instead of really light, almost white faces, we have faded, greyish faces. This is what decreased contrast is like. It sucks. No one really uses it. If someone can show me a picture where an obvious amount of decreased contrast is used artistically, I will be impressed.

Now, what curves does is just lets you adjust brightness and contrast, but more specifically. Instead of brightening the whole image, you can brighten just a certain range of tones. Or instead of of adding contrast to the whole thing, you can add contrast to a certain range! Woot, let’s go! = D

This is a logical graphs curve to use and what it does to the image.

This is a logical curves graph to use and what it does to the image.

Yay! This is an appropriate curves graph to use for a picture like this. Let me explain to you what I did. First, look at the second point from the left. Since it’s so close to the left, that means it’s mostly affecting the darker tones. I say ‘mostly’ because, since this is a a curve graph, any time you create a point and change it’s location, it’s going to be attached to tones around it. The ones closest to it will be effected the most and the ones farthest from it, less. It works this way because if you had to adjust every single tone separately, you would have endless work to do.

So, I dragged the point down as you can see. What did that do? You should be able to tell me ’cause I told you before. But you won’t so I’ll let you think about it for a bit. {{THI-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-I-INK!}} So what happened before when we dragged points up and down? When you drag them up, the tones get brighter, and when you drag them down, they get… DARKER! So, the point that I adjusted was near the left of the graph, which means it would affect darker tones. Yay. And I dragged it down, which means that I made those darker tones… DARKER! Why would I do that? Remember what I said about contrast? I said that when contrast is boosted, darker tones get even darker and lighter tones get even lighter. So what I just did was make darker tones darker. Like I said before, the difference between what I’m doing here and what I did with the ‘Brightness and Contrast’ is that I get to pick which tones I’m affecting instead of letting The GIMP decide. Friggin’ GIMP.

Alright, now look at the third point from the left. Do you see how it’s causing the curve to… curve? Again, when you affect a certain point on the graph, you have no choice but to affect areas around it. If you were to place a point anywhere on that part of the curve, the point would be above where it was when it was just a diagonal line. So, look where the point is. It’s closer to the right, which means we’re adjusting lighter tones this time. And where did I drag it? Up. What happens when we drag things up? The selected tones will become brighter. So, with those two extra points placed on the graph, I’ve made darks darker and brights brighter. What’s that called? Contrast. Yeah baby. We just created contrast. Not just any contrast, but ’specified’ contrast. {{High Five}} Uncheck preview. Yuck. Turn preview back on and marvel at the improvement. Off. On. Off. On. So good. It’s hard to see unless you’re looking at the full resolution picture, but though the darker colors have been made darker, my sweater has retained its green. And though the lighter colors have been made even lighter, my face doesn’t look over-exposed. But hey, if you disagree, great! Now do something about it. If you think my sweater’s too black, then drag that second point up a bit more. And if you think my face is too white, then drag the third point down a little more. Or if you think that the tones that need brightening are just the really light ones, then bring the third point even more to the right so you’ll be affecting lighter tones. Look how much control you have! Insane.

I really hope this helped. I didn’t realize until I started working on this tutorial how impossible it is to explain Curves briefly. But if you have any questions, email me and I’ll try to help you out more. That pretty much covers it though… Thanks for reading.